It’s taken a few years of experimentation, procrastination, and wilted salads for me to realize that I simply do not like lettuce*.
I have never been a huge fan of salads. Occasionally I’ll order one at a restaurant and I always eat them, but I have vague childhood recollections of plowing through a plate of salad just so I can get on with eating the good stuff. At home, I hate making them. Cleaning lettuce is tedious, even with a salad spinner. The ingredients don’t blend together well and there’s not much you can do to a salad besides arrange it. The pièce de résistance of the salad is the dressing which is only good because fat tastes good.
Last Winter I looked to a new cookbook for inspiration which helped, but did not solve the problem of not liking lettuce. This Winter I am continuing my quest for salads I actually enjoy. My most recent solution came from Cooks Illustrated: Fall Entertaining 2010. Page 46 had an article about “Warm Winter Salads” with three recipes and not a single mention of lettuce! After my shock, amazement, and excitement subsided and I read the article over and over to make sure I was not missing the L-word, I tried one of the recipes with success and, of course, some substitutions.
Radicchio and Watercress Salad with Warm Fennel and Walnut Dressing
recipe from Cooks Illustrated: Fall Entertaining 2010, p46
- 1 large garlic clove, minced or pressed (~1½ t)
- 1 T lemon juice
- 2 T sherry or white wine vinegar
- ¼ t table salt
- ⅛ t ground black pepper
- ⅓ c and 1 T extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 c walnuts, chopped
- 1 medium fennel bulb (~10 oz)
- 2-3 anchovy filets (~1 T chopped)
- 3 large bunches watercress (~6½ c)
- 1 medium head radicchio (~2½ c)
- 1½ oz Parmesan cheese, shaved
- Cut the fennel bulb (minus the stem) into thin slices.
- Whisk garlic, lemon juice, vinegar, salt, and pepper in a small bowl.
- Gradually whisk in ⅓ c oil until the dressing is smooth and emulsified.
- Heat the walnuts in 1 T oil in a (nonstick) skillet over medium heat, stirring until lightly toasted (3 minutes).
- Add fennel to the skillet and cook until it begins to soften and is very lightly golden (3 minutes).
- Stir in anchovies and cook until fragrant (30 seconds).
- Whisk dressing to blend and add to the skillet. Remove from the heat.
- Toss the greens and dressing.
- Shave cheese over each portion and serve immediately.
Notes
Watercress is a pain to clean and trim. I love kale but limit my consumption of it because of the effort involved in properly cleaning fresh curly kale. That being said, cleaning and trimming watercress made me want to clean kale. That’s saying a lot.
The recipe says it serves 6. I usually find that recipes say they serve 4 and I wonder what petite tasters they had. Not for this recipe! I ate watercress and fennel for about a week (lunch and dinner!) and it still wasn’t gone. Fortunately it was so good I didn’t mind a week of watercress salad!
Variations
As always, my recipe would not be complete without substitutions. I tried desperately to follow the magazine’s recipe exactly since they present their recipes with such precision and dediated research. I even went to a produce stand that imports nearly everything, rather than the local selection at the Fair Food Farmstand. However, radicchio was simply impossible to find 30 minutes before closing just after the holidays. So I used red cabbage and crossed my fingers. It was a bit tougher than radicchio so make sure you slice it very thin if you use it, but the flavor was fine. I also was not going to buy 2-3 anchovy filets to add a pungent flavor. Fortunately, I always keep anchovy paste on hand. A tablespoon did the trick.
*Full disclosure: there are many varieties of lettuce. I actually discovered one this summer that I cannot pass up – Butter Lettuce. I don’t know if it’s the way it looks, or its nearly velvety texture, or simply the fact that I usually pair it with shrimp, but I really like it. So this post should read that I hate all lettuce except for butter lettuce, excluding other types of lettuce that I have not tried.</span